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The Legacy of Patan Patola

Patola is a centuries-old double Ikat weave, with its origins in Patan, the northern region of Gujarat.

Origin and Evolution of Patan Patola Sarees
The earliest instances of the Patan na Patola fabric was seen around the 11th century Surprisingly, there are only three families practising the Patola weave. One of these is the Salvi family, which is now in its 16th generation. Under their patronage, the patola saree gained social status and became a symbol of prosperity among the aristocracy of Gujarat.

The weavers of this legacy were originally from Karnataka and Maharashtra, mainly the silk weavers of these regions. 700 of them were brought from Jalna by King Kumarpala who wanted to mass-produce this fabric. They settled in the Patan region of Gujarat to accept patronage for their exquisite craft. However, some ancient scriptures also document instances of this saree being in use by women way before this.

The beauty of the patan patola saree is that it has managed to stand the test of time and retained its originality over the years. The weave, the patterns and the designs are all traditional and have not changed much over the years. It is all a part of the rich patan patola heritage that has skillfully transitioned its existence into changing times.

The Patola Weave
Involving a very intricate and complex process of tie-dyeing on the warp and weft before weaving, this highly esteemed weave is acknowledged by connoisseurs as a traditional and ancient art that needs to be preserved and promoted. Patola weaving requires a lot of precise mental calculations, vivid imagination, patience, undivided attention, and dexterity of the hand.

The Patola weave uses a resist-dyeing technique. There are several steps involved in creating the perfect patola masterpiece:

• In the first step, the yarn is tied together with cotton threads according to the desired pattern.

• Next, the yarn is tied and dyed several times depending on the pattern’s requirements.

• The next step involves arranging the coloured yarn on the loom according to the desired pattern. It has to be synchronized perfectly and with extreme precision.

• The threads are constantly adjusted while weaving with utmost patience.

What is the Single Ikat and Double Ikat Weave?
Ikat refers to the weaving technique that involves resist-dyeing the yarns before they are woven. The methods involved are Single Ikat and Double Ikat. In single Ikat, Only the warp is dyed and woven with a plain weft. Whereas, in a double ikat, both the warp and weft are pre-dyed and then woven together with a lot of skill and patience. The patan patola sarees use both these techniques to produce wonderful masterpieces.

The uniqueness of the patan na patola is that it can be worn from both sides. Hence the saree has pallu on both sides but the gold zari kaddi is present on only one side. Implying that the weave is so intricate and well done that there are no loose threads anywhere. Since the yarn is pre-dyed, it lends a similar experience to the backside. Another unique feature of this process is that the handloom is worked at a tilted angle with two people working on one piece in sync. It is no surprise that the saree takes almost a year to be completed.

Designs and Motifs in Patan Patola
The designs and motifs found on Patan patola have remained constant for centuries. The weavers draw inspiration from nature and their surroundings. Hence, a lot of patterns include animal motifs, people, architectural references from the region and items from daily household. One of the main designs found is the Nari Kunjar, the elephant and gopinis. The Ratan Chowk Bhat has floral motifs in geometrical arrangements. Akhrot Bhat is walnut motifs, Popat Kunjar is parrot motifs and Mahras Bhat has motifs of dancing women. The Pan Bhat – leaf motifs – is another favourite. Animal motifs are considered particularly auspicious.

The chosen designs have massive cultural significance. Since patola sarees are used in auspicious events like weddings, the designs and patterns inlaid play a key role. Traditionally worn by the bride, these sarees are known to ward off evil from the upcoming life. A particular pattern known as Chhabdi Bhat (Flower basket) is linked with improved fertility. In this design, a circle of lotus flowers, buds and leaves are used. The animal motifs are symbolic of the longevity of the husband’s life and the geometric square patterns provide a sense of security to women.

The prowess of this fabric has surpassed boundaries and been accepted by the Southeast Asian countries, mainly Indonesia and Thailand. They consider patan patola to contain magical abilities that will protect them in wars and diseases.

Colours of Patan Patola
The beauty of this saree is its originality. Just how the weave and the designs have not changed over the years, the process is also still the same as what was used in the Ajanta caves. Patola sarees have traditionally used natural dyes obtained from indigo, turmeric, plant roots, henna, fruits and flowers. Since the production of pure and authentic patan patola sarees has been limited to only a few families, they have managed to keep this art alive.

Buy Original Patan Patola Saree
Ravi Patola Art is proud to present its exclusive collection of Patan Patola saree price – the ultimate manifestation of weaving perfection in the finest of silks. These sarees take 8 months to a year to complete, with at least four skilled weavers working on them at any given time. By buying a Patan Patola saree, you play a vital role in keeping our weaving heritage alive. And of course, you become the proud owner of an heirloom-worthy treasure in six yards!!

What is Patan Patola silk?
Patan Patola silk is a traditional saree from the Patan town of Gujarat. It uses a resist dye technique and is a traditional item in Gujarati households. It uses the double ikat method wherein both the warp and weft have the design before weaving. It is a rare form to make these sarees and is currently practised by only three of the original families.

What is so special about Patola?
The most unique part about the Patan na Patola is that it can be worn on both sides! It uses a resist dye technique wherein the silk yarns are pre-coloured and then arranged sequentially according to a design on the handloom. This level of precision and expertise requires patience and an enhanced skill set. The best part about these sarees is that it has stood the test of time and has not been altered or influenced much. The pure products that we will see today are what was available hundreds of years back.

Why is Patan Patola so expensive?
Patan Patola price can go upto two lakh ruppes. It is a rare weave and an age-old tradition in Gujarati households for the bride to wear this saree. The reason this saree has become so expensive is its rarity and the amount of time and effort it takes in producing each saree. It takes around 6 months to a year to weave one single saree.

Which city is famous for Patola?
Patan Patola saree is originally from the Patan town in the northern part of Gujarat. The weavers were sourced from Karnataka and Maharashtra and finally settled in Patan.

How much time does it take to prepare one Patola?
The original Patan Patola saree is extremely intricate and with a lot of details involved. The weaving process is complex and time-consuming. A six-yard saree can take from 6 months to 3 years to weave. On average, a weaver is able to weave only about a quarter-inch of a saree per day.

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